St. Thomas Offers Variety of Sights, Sounds and Surprises

St. Magen's Bay is St. Thomas highlight. - Virgin Islands Tourism
St. Magen's Bay is St. Thomas highlight. - Virgin Islands Tourism
Castle tours, scuba diving, big-game fishing and import shopping are St. Thomas specialties. But they're only a sampling of the Caribbean island's pleasures

St. Thomas has been called the Caribbean's answer to Fantasyland. And with good reason. Its harbor at Charlotte Amalie (pronounced Amalya) is like a page from a beautifully illustrated fairy tale: The view from Bluebeard's Castle sweeps over emerald islands scattered on a sapphire sea. Quaint Danish buildings of pink, yellow and blue cling to the hillsides. Underwater, the fantasy goes on with kaleidoscopes of marine life, coral reefs, caves and wrecks of sailing ships.

Shaped like some mythical sea creature, St. Thomas basks in the sun 40 miles east of Puerto Rico. About the area of Manhattan, it is only 14 miles long and roughly 2 miles wide. With about 55,000 people, St. Thomas is the most heavily populated island among the U.S. Virgins Volcanic in origin, the island's topography is irregular with mountains rising as high as 1,500 feet. The average year around temperature is 78 degrees; and though there may be an occasional day when the humidity makes it feel sauna-like, tropical breezes usually provide natural air conditioning that's near perfect.

St. Thomas is Second Richest Marine Area in the World

The waters around St. Thomas are reputed to be the second richest marine area for underwater exploration in the world, surpassed only by the Australian reefs. Although marlin, sailfish, blackfin tuna and wahoo lure big-game fishermen, millions of other fish populate the island's undersea kingdom. Bright yellow feather duster worms, vivid red and purple sponges, green sea cucumbers, angelfish, miniature serge an majors and hundreds of other varieties of sea life inhabit the tide pools. The keys to this magic kingdom are available at any of several diving centers on St. Thomas.

After basic instructions on using scuba and orkeling gear (sometimes augmented by video tapes), it's off to actice sessions and snorkeling at one of the palm-fringed beaches. The boat trip to the diving grounds features its own magic of fresh Caribbean breezes and gossamer sea spray and. dolphins gliding effortlessly through the water.· Seabirds nest on the rocks. In wintertime, schools of mammoth humpbacked whales cruise by on their journey from Polar seas.

Caribbean Fish Species are Numerous and Colorful

But the boat ride is only a prelude to the enchantment of Neptune's beautiful merry-go-round below. After strapping on air tanks and adjusting their masks, divers descend to a land where giant manta rays flutter by in their elaborate courting dances. Royal grammas dart past huge sea turtles. Myriad exotic fish with names e beau gregories, gobies and rasses execute intricate water ballets against a backdrop of irridescent coral, sparkling more brightly than the jewels in St. Thomas' freeport shops.

The sea life extravaganza, however, is only part of the underwater fantasy. For centuries the waters have taken their toll of ships-those of 16th century Spanish explorers, 17th century pirates and 18th century merchant princes as well as cargo ships of more recent vintage. Since most of the wrecks lie buried in their coral shrouds, chances of finding chests brimming with pieces of eight are remote, but wreckage of several ships has been located and provides a world of adventure. There's the Rhone, a 310-foot steamer, which went down in 1867 and crouches dark against the ocean floor. After 109 years of submersion, this shipwreck remains remarkably intact with a good deal of her hull and most of her rigging still in place.

Pirates Like Bluebeard and Blackbeard Figure in Legends

There's a steel-hulled cargo ship that sank in 1939 and is richly encrusted with marine life. And, the Santa Monica, a lovely old wreck, has given up such treasures as a dinner bell and silver candlesticks. On shore at Bluebeard's Castle the island's sorcery goes on. The shuttered stone tower, according to island folklore, was built so the infamous pirate could observe approaching galleons, laden with treasure, en route to the New World from Europe. He had the tower converted into' his home when he married the beautiful golden-haired Sarema Sordello, the story goes, and years later murdered her there.

Much of St. Thomas' 17th and 18th century "history" is made up of swashbuckling legends about the pirates of the Caribbean-Bluebeard, Laffite, Kidd, Blackbeard. Buccaneers are said to have bought their supplies and sold their loot at the busy trading port. It is from St. Thomas that many of them set forth to plunder ships burgeoning with gold and silver. Some islanders say the pirates still walk the island, in the form of ghosts, or jumbis. Bluebeard's Castle is now a hotel, but much of its romance remains.

St. Thomas Attractions include Butterfly Farm and Skyride St. Peter Mountain Greathouse and Botanical Gardens, the Butterfly Farm, the 24-passenger Skyride, the 18-hole Mahogany Run Golf Course are only a few of the choices. For excitement, St. Thomas is at its best -- and most crowded -- during pre-lent Carnival time

CONNIE EMERSON, RALPH EMERSON

Connie Emerson - Ever since I can remember, going places and seeing new sights has intrigued me. A robin drinking from a puddle after a springtime Paris ...

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